Earlier this week while we were both without internet and without work around camp, we decided to visit one of the more interesting features of Kerch's long history. The Fortress of Yenikale (Еникале in Russian) is the impressive remains of a formidable Turkish battlement built starting in 1699. During this period, Crimea was firmly in muslim hands and Yenikale was constructed specifically to keep it that way. It guards the Strait of Kerch and thus the ability to move from the Sea of Azov (Russian territory) in the north to the Black and Mediterranean Seas (Turkish territory) in the South. Any serious naval expedition would have to pass in front of Yenikale's impressive arsenal. Like the Maginot Line (more history, kids...look it up!) in France, it ultimately proved to be guarding the wrong direction as the Russians invaded Crimea from the west and eventually defeated the fort from behind.
Since we didn't really know how to get there, we took our friend Jenya and hiked around a bit in the bitter cold. We tried to avoid the graffiti and trash in our pictures but it is always interesting to see how little they seem to value what would be a priceless piece of history were it in the Western Hemisphere.
The fort isn't very popular on days when your spit freezes on your tongue. We were the only people there and Jenya was able to stand in the middle of the road without impeding traffic for quite a while.
This is from inside the only remaining tower. Through the gaps on either side of the spire you can just make out Russia in the distance.
This is looking up the hill from the main tower area. We were later told that Tanya, one of our summer counselors, was born in the house that is just out of view to the right (actually within the fort's walls) - presumably built from stones scavenged from the crumbling fortress.
Campbell and Daddy always makes for great pictures.
Looking down at Sarry and Cam from the top of the "North Wall".
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Yenekale s beautiful and engaging, but take a visit to the newer, underground fort on the othet end of the city...it is amazing and one ofmy favorite picnic spots. Make sure to visit adzumaskaya (sp?) where during WWII thousands of locals were trapped underground and almost straved to death....And of course all the amazing Greek history around Metridates (the Bosporan kingdom reigned here!)...and do not forget the burial tomb - most of the wealth is n display in St Petersburg now. And Kerch has the oldest curch in Eastern Europe. Yenikale is cool, but like old cowboy forts out WEst in USA, it is a minor fortress and did not serve long. The major history of the area casts a far longer shadow! Kudos for getting out and seeing things!
ReplyDeleteGinn
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I did get to see the catacombs last summer and it is a fixture of the summer teams so we'll probably visit again with some of them. We've been to Mitridat once but the wind has been pretty brutal lately - especially for a sub-2 year old.
ReplyDeleteIt looks so cold there! But at least Campbell got to climb around on an old fortress! We missed you all on New Years.
ReplyDeleteNo se que paso con esta comment. Los Portugeses son locos, verdad?
ReplyDeleteLOL...now that's funny! I'm posting this comment after the other comment about your bath experience. Apparently, you HAVE been to a Turkish prison....
ReplyDeleteJust past the Fortress some 10km is a commercial Ostrich farm. You can take a tour of it, then eat in the restaurant. It has amazing great food and a fantastic fireplace that they burn on cold days. Wne comming down the hill you can see an great view of the Sea of Azov.
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